The legendary of Tea at Ong's

Ong's keeps alive the tea-sipping culture in a city dominated by coffee shops.

Small groups of customers come to Ong's Tea to enjoy a pot of superior Chinese tea and share lovely quiches. This old tea house - the only branch of the Ong Ew Kee tea leaf shop on Bumrungmuang Road near Sao Ching Cha (The Giant Swing) - is where people in quest of inner peace quietly share a pot of newly brewed tea.

"I grew up in a house full of tea leaves," says Nopporn Phasaphong, the shop's fourth-generation owner, over a tiny Chinese-style cup of oolong. "But it is here that we have managed to attract a new generation which loves the taste and delicate culture of tea drinking. Drinking tea invites peace and is thus suitable for people who want to calm down and relax."

With over 50 varieties of tea leaves, most of them imported from China, Taiwan and Japan, Ong's Tea offers drinks from 10 popular varieties. If you go in a group, you can order a set of four pieces of the quiche of the day with a pot of Tikwanin or Sui Sien tea. Those with specific needs can choose from the various tea leaves in tin boxes. If you are uncertain about what to choose, consult the shop assistants, who help by providing you with samples to taste.

"I remember that in the old days people drank a lot more tea than now," says Nopporn. "Teas were usually imported from China, in wooden boxes covered with hand-woven bamboo mats. They were gorgeous just to look at. Each shop has its own way of brewing the leaves. They had their secret recipes and brands. For example, during World War II, there was a tea called 'Bomb' with the picture of a falling bomb. That was hilarious."

While many tea shops in the old quarter of Sao Ching Cha have closed down, Ong Ew Kee is still up and running. Its customers are increasingly younger and upholding the tea drinking culture in this coffee-dominated capital.


"It was my younger brother who initiated the idea of capturing the attention of young people by making Japanese Matcha green tea ice cream," says Nopporn. "When they come over for a cup of ice cream, we also serve them freshly brewed Chinese tea and they like it. Later, they come just for the tea and many buy tea leaves to take home. I think teens like to relax peacefully with tea, just as adults do."

Regarding the concern about the level of caffeine in a popular green tea, Nopporn says that it's nothing new - there is definitely a certain amount of caffeine in tea, whatever the variety.

She recommends the aromatic Kaoshan oolong from Taiwan and the Tikwanin oolong from Fujian province of China as good buys. The latter has a strong aftertaste and is very popular in both China and Thailand.
Ong's Tea also has iced bottled green tea and soft tofu in various flavours such as melon, Chinese almond, green tea, strawberry and kiwi, all stored in its fridge.

Ong's Tea
4th Floor, Siam Discovery
BTS:Siam
10.00-21.00 daily
(02) 658 0445

Bangkok Post - Fri. June 17, 2005 by Sirin Palasri